This is a multilayered play by one of our foremost
playwrights, twice winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Drama, Lynn Nottage. She juggles so many themes in Intimate Apparel, it dazzles. In the hands of Palm Beach Dramaworks, this
achingly lyrical play, set in lower Manhattan in 1905, is an abundance of
disquieting truths, and underlying hopes.
The language of the play is ineffably beautiful.
The playwright has created memorable and tragically flawed
characters, falling victim to societal norms and personal adversity. Intimate
Apparel’s themes of isolation and yearning to be loved are universal. Although
set in the early 20th century, the play’s underlying racism, sexism,
and division by religion or culture resonate today. No wonder it was recently adapted as an
opera, the playwright becoming the librettist; all sold out performances at
Lincoln Center and soon to be shown on PBS’ Great Performances.
“I wrote Intimate Apparel in part because of my desire to
get closer to my ancestors,” Nottage told PBD Producing Artistic Director
William Hayes in a 2020 interview (available on YouTube). “I wanted to understand what it might have
been like for a single, Black woman at the turn of the century to try and forge
a life in New York City despite all the obstacles she probably had to face. I
also wanted to write a play for my mother, something that she would have loved
to have seen, something that was in her gentle, loving spirit.”
Rita Cole is a heartbreaking Esther, a 35-year-old
African American seamstress whose imaginative creations are sought out by her friends
and wealthy matrons from high society. She
lives in a boarding house and has watched twenty-two women come and go during
her eighteen years there. Esther has
been left behind in the contests of love and marriage. She longs for their experience. Cole reveals her character’s sadness and
seriousness of purpose, preserving her sense of rectitude while saving all the
money she’s earned over the years inside a quilt she made.
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Rita Cole and Jordan Sobel |
Stealthily central to the play is the ethereal but
forbidden love of two artisans, Esther and Mr. Marks. Her appreciation of fine
fabrics and artistic creations are much-admired by her Hasidic merchant Mr.
Marks tenderly played by Jordan Sobel. Together,
they marvel at the fabrics, with a subliminal yearning for one another, but
their ethnicity and societal norms prevent even a passing touch. Sobel sustains a sense of awkwardness because
of the ethnic divide when Esther is near.
He too is enveloped by loneliness and need for love but is soon to be
part of an arranged marriage.
Esther’s landlady Mrs. Dickson, and Mrs. Van Buren, her
society patron, urge her to settle as they have. They have been in loveless marriages.
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Gabrielle Lee and Rita Cole |
Gabrielle Lee, as the boardinghouse landlady, sashays
across the stage capturing her character’s pragmatic and confident attitude as
well as her love for Esther who she treats like a daughter. Mrs. Dickson’s unfortunate marriage, however, allowed
her to escape being a washwoman like her mother who would caution: “Marry up,”
showing her bleeding scarred hands “Look what love done to me.” In a moment of foreshadowing Mrs. Dickson movingly
warns Esther, Don’t you let no man have
no part of your heart without getting a piece of his.
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Rita Cole and Krystal Mosley |
Her friend, for whom she also sews, Mayme, is robustly
performed by Krystal Mosley. She is a
prostitute, and a singer and piano player at one of the saloons in “The Tenderloin”
section of Manhattan (a red light district of night clubs and brothels). She
has a jaundiced view of men and ultimately becomes pivotal to the plot. Mosley projects her character’s easy going,
breezy aplomb. When Esther is fitting Mayme
for a corset she perfectly captures the irrationality of class issues telling
Mayme about Mrs. Van Buren and the expensive corsets she has made for her: You know
that white lady I talk about sometime…. She keep asking me what they be wearing
up in the Tenderloin. All that money and high breeding and she wore what you
wearing.…What she got, you want, what you got, she want.
In spite of Esther and Mayme being from opposite sides of
a moral fence, they are the best of friends.
Esther heartachingly shares the dream for her lifelong savings with
Mayme: I own a quaint beauty parlor for
colored ladies…. The smart set. Someplace east of Amsterdam, fancy, where you
get pampered and treated real nice. ‘Cause no one does it for us. We just as
soon wash our heads in a bucket and be treated like mules. But I’m talking
about is someplace elegant.
Enter the catalyst, George Armstrong played by Jovon
Jacobs (the only PBD veteran in the play) who at first has an epistolary relationship
with Esther as he is working on the Panama Canal. In a series of letters back and forth of
escalating intimacy, Esther sees a means of marrying a man she’s never met.
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Jovon Jacobs and Rita Cole |
The role of George is a multifaceted one and Jacobs
embraces it with seething sexuality and raw emotion, playing both the villain
and the victim. He also fills the stage
with his physicality. Jacobs’ passion as
George dominates his many monologues such as when he says of the “Panama
project,” that has killed thousands of black laborers like himself: But when the great oceans meet and the
gentlemen celebrate, will we colored men be given glasses to raise?
The play gradually shifts to betrayal of dreams as George
is not as he represented himself in “his” letters and Esther, who is
illiterate, has had to have her letters ghost written for her, mostly by Mrs.
Van Buren who vicariously plunges into love on her behalf, the kind of love she
herself has been denied.
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Gracie Winchester and Rita Cole |
Mrs. Van Buren, played by Gracie Winchester, whose
station in life is ensured by her wealth and her white ethnicity, is ironically
one of the loneliest characters in the play and she forms an attachment to
Esther who is completely unaware of her feelings. Gracie Winchester lustfully portrays her
character’s true feelings saying to Esther while drunk: It is so
easy to be with you. Your visits are about the only thing I look forward to
these days. You and our letters to George, of course.
Those letters are an integral part of the play’s climatic
moment, Rita Cole and Jovon Jacobs ascending to an unforgettable dramatic peak.
Self-deception, betrayal, and the vulnerability of women,
shatter Esther’s dream of opening a beauty parlor for “colored ladies.” George’s dreams of becoming a builder die
away as he is a Barbadian immigrant without connections; those dreams fading
into get rich quick schemes. Mayme’s
dreams of being a concert pianist long ago yielded to prostitution. Yet despite all these headwinds, Esther’s intrinsic
steadfastness and skill ultimately serve as her Phoenix. The American Dream is so often seen as the
exclusive province of WASPs in literature and theater; Nottage movingly shows us
another dimension.
There are multiple scenes and settings, a challenge for
Michael Amico, the Scenic Designer. As
scenes flow right into one another, his utilitarian solution is elegant,
capturing the Belle Époque look and feel of the era, in a proscenium framed like
a photograph. From stage right to left,
there are Mayme’s boudoir and piano, Esther’s boarding house bed, above that a
small platform in which we see George in Panama, then Esther’s circa 1900
sewing machine, operational and symbolic, further, Mrs. Van Buren’s dressing
room and finally Mr. Marks’ treasure chest of fine fabrics.
The Director, Be Boyd (her PBD debut), uses the full
breadth of the stage to create dramatic movement, irrespective of the scene
pocket “owned” by the character, the audience having to use its
imagination. It works. Boyd’s experience as a teacher shows (in
addition to being a director, she’s an Associate Professor, School of
Performing Arts, at The University of Central Florida), asking her actors to
fully embrace the theme of dreams denied. The pacing of the first act may be a little
slow, but necessary for each word to clearly land. Those who patiently allow the action to simply
unfold are well rewarded.
Lighting design by Kirk Bookman works with these pockets
of scenes, lighting each area and flowing into the next with the action. There
are subtle changes in lighting color and watch the lighting behind the
curtains.
Roger Arnold’s sound design focuses on some original
ragtime pieces that Dramaworks commissioned Josh Lubin to compose for the
production, ones joyfully played by Mayme on her piano. Transitional moments feature other music of
the period as well as the sounds George might have heard in Panama while
working on the canal.
Resident Costume Designer, Brian O'Keefe, has more than
met the challenge of designing multiple period pieces, for George and the women
of different socio-economic classes, many of them specifically called for by
the playwright. The authenticity of his
hand sewn costumes adds immeasurably to the production. There are the exquisite silk corsets and undergarments,
multiple dresses, a man’s suit, and the beautiful smoking jacket which had to
be hand created twice because it was impossible to unnoticeably transport it
between two critical scenes.
A special call goes out to the props staff of PBD,
particularly for the vintage sewing machine which carries the play’s arc, to
the wig designer, Anne Nesmith, and to the Stage Manager Suzanne Clement Jones
who successfully navigates the Director’s staging of this intricate play.
Lynn Nottage and Palm Beach Dramaworks have given us a
window into a world of the past, one of uncomfortable truths about class,
gender and race. It is a courageous
production, both in content and performance.
The play, which Variety called
“note-perfect,” runs through April 17.
All photographs of
actors in the play are by Jason Nuttle