I’ve always had a penchant for the mountains, the crisp air, the pristine beauty, the remoteness, all helping to temporarily disrupt the anxiety of our times. As a consequence we began to occasionally rent a place in Asheville, NC, starting with condos and graduating to homes, all these rentals through a broker (this was pre AirBnB). We also treated ourselves to a few stays at the iconic Grove Park Inn, its edifice shaped from the granite boulders that were hauled from a nearby mountain, mostly by mule wagon. The original structure has been added to as time went on. It is a history vault as well, it’s walls lined with plaques of the people who have stayed there, just about every luminary of the 20th and 21st century, including most of the US Presidents.
We used to visit the area driving back from CT after spending several months living aboard our boat. Covid disrupted everything, as well as merely aging. Also, the boat is now our son’s, so we are not driving to CT anymore. But the mountains still beckoned. Having visited most of the sites in and around Asheville, this time we wanted to do something a little different. That is mostly stay in one place where we have views and privacy and quiet.
So we joined the AirBnB site and began our search. We wanted not only those spectacular views, but a remote mountain top as well. We found one, a Chalet with three bedrooms, fully equipped kitchen, a hot tub, and fireplace with plenty of cordwood. Naturally, the main attraction being glorious views of the mountains and quiet that only remoteness can offer. The only immediate neighbors we were told might be a sighting of a bear or deer in Fairview, NC, a rural community bordering on Asheville, only 20 minutes from downtown. The house boasted great reviews, so we said OK; bring on the quiet and the bears and the funky nearby places to eat with the locals. Of course we didn’t really mean bears, but we read it was possible to occasionally spot one along the side of the road.
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| Dawn |
We timed our arrival so could first shop at the local Food Fair and although the plan was to just get the essentials, we were early for our check-in and so we stocked up without really considering how loaded the car was already.
At the appointed time, we began our climb up to our “home away from home” for the next two weeks and I mean, climb and more climbing along the curving mountain roads. Lost except for the miraculous GPS (what did we do before??) which finally led us to (and we were warned about this from reviews), the final half mile of twisting road which is only one car width wide, with tumbling down the steep mountainside as one option if you got too close to one side, or getting stuck in a deep rocky culvert on the other, which I suppose a 4 wheel drive vehicle with good ground clearance could navigate. Unfortunately for us our two wheel, rear drive SUV gave us only a little more road clearance than a sedan but no added traction.
The rule of the road is the vehicle going up has the right of way which means if you meet one as you are going down, you have to back up to the point you can pull into one of the few driveways (all at 45 degree angles) or back all the way to your house (ours, a 45 degree one as well).
Well, in our two weeks there we never saw another vehicle on this stretch. Lucky us. Crisis averted!
So, we arrived and unpacked like crazy, including groceries, and hauled everything into our halcyon hideaway.
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| Gound fog in the morning |
The problem with any rental, no matter how ideal, is acclimating yourself to someone else’s idea of what constitutes comfort. Our landlady, Brea, to her credit, must be OCD as copious instructions were everywhere. Except in the entertainment department where she assumes that everyone was ROKU and DISH literate. Hey, Brea, you are dealing with a couple of old fossils here! Give us cable and a remote and we can survive. The sad upshot was we couldn’t figure out how to watch the US Tennis open as we unpacked, missing Coco’s semi final match. Exhausted out of our minds, we finally crawled to our bed.
The next morning, though, we called and Brea patiently explained how to navigate the TV from the various on screen menus. It was a day to relax. Enjoy the mountain views, fit in some reading and watch a little tennis at night. Our mountain Chalet had a wrap around deck with table, chairs, grill, etc. for outdoor eating, relaxing, and viewing.
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| Our Bear Visitor |
We were having a glass of wine with crackers and hummus early that evening. Ann had just brought the food inside leaving me briefly while I sat quietly mesmerized by our view. Suddenly I heard a sound behind me and when I turned I saw a black bear approaching me from behind, actually on the deck about 10-15 feet away. I jumped up, we locked eyes but the bear jumped too, just as frightened, not realizing that the still figure sitting there was a dreaded human being! He turned around on his hind legs and walked slowly back to the driveway, surveyed the car, and even stopped for a few photos. Seeing him in relation to our car gives an idea of his size, maybe 250 lbs.
Brea reminded us the next morning about how totally unusual it was that a bear came so close, especially coming up on the deck. People do have sightings but rarely like that one.
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| Troyer's Country Amish Blatz |
We shopped that day at a very local store, half way down the mountain, Troyer's Country Amish Blatz (talk about farm to table and local). We read that they made the most amazing sandwiches and decided to try this for ourselves. There we overheard that they would be closing the following day to attend a Willie Nelson concert with friends, some 200 miles away. Too bad I thought as our son and daughter in law would be visiting for the weekend and it would have been an ideal place to take them for a little local color.
In anticipation of their arrival, Ann bought and made “from scratch” a vegetable/bean soup, a nice snack for when their plane arrived at the local Asheville airport and so down the mountain we went the next day to pick up Jon and Tracie.
Asheville Regional Airport has its issues -- mostly commuter lines flying under the names of the larger carriers. This necessitated their arriving on two different flights from LGA but they did get in pretty much on schedule, a half hour apart. Leaving was a different story. They were scheduled to leave together, but the flight was cancelled for no reason and was rescheduled for 8.00 am the following day. We left the mountain top at 6.00 am to get them there in plenty of time. They boarded the flight on time, ready to roll and then they were told to leave the plane because of mechanical problems. Rerouting through Charlotte later in the afternoon resulted in flying or waiting around airports the entire day. This made Ann say that she didn’t think they would ever come back to Asheville again!
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| At the Grove Park Inn |
Nonetheless, that gave us an extra day to spend with them. We toured the area and sampled some of the fun restaurants nearby for dinner, particularly Cooks Corner and Rendezvous. And that allowed us time for lunch on the Grove Park Inn stone terrace with majestic views of the Blue Ridge mountain range as well as a tour of the Hotel itself which our daughter in law had never seen.
The botanical gardens offered up not only the local fauna, but during our walk in the forest we went past a momma and baby bear watching us. VERY nearby. As the mother bear is very protective we were told not to stop or make any motion that she might interpret as threatening, so we kept moving although Jonathan said to them, “That’s OK, nothing to see here” as we walked on. They seemed to understand thankfully. Bears can run up to 30 mph for short distances and were a short distance, so we really didn’t want to engage them in conversation!
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| At the Botanical Gardens |
After the “kids” left we were on our own to enjoy the next week and a half. One of Ann’s dearest friends, Joyce (soon to be 98 years old but acts and looks our age or younger!) now lives there with her daughter Terri and her husband Brian who built a beautiful year round house to their specifications and, wisely, only half way up a mountain. When Joyce moved from Florida, they converted an en suite bedroom to an in-law quarter and Joyce now has the best of both worlds, the setting and family, as well as being near her other daughter, Pattie. So we spent some time and had dinner with them later in the week. I could easily trade our home in FL for theirs in Asheville, but not one other person involved would agree, especially Ann.
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| Joyce and Ann |
No trip to the area would be complete without a visit to downtown Asheville proper. It’s a funky city so much reminding me of my days in the East Village in NYC. Most of the locals have tattoos and somewhere in this blog you’ll find a story of Paul Ortloff who was a friend of mine in high school and became a well known tattoo artist, living in Woodstock (think he still does). Every time I’m in Asheville I think of him.
Asheville, like any city, has a homeless population and it is sad to see someone sleeping on the ground there or dumpster diving. I managed to get a photograph of two young women in plain sight and the body expression of the one waiting tells a story of despair.
The main draw downtown for us is a great independent bookstore, Malaprop’s Bookstore / Café. We could spend all day there. And we sort of did, ending up buying several books. I looked at their signed editions section and they had one I wanted, a hardcover of Richard Russo’s latest book, the final one in his “Sully” trilogy, Somebody’s Fool. I already had the book on my iPad and that was to be my next read. But it’s a signed Richard Russo! (I have a couple of others). As I don’t like to mark up clothbound books anyhow, I rationalized that I would get this for my collection and read it on my iPad. Ann loaded up on paperbacks on the advice of one of the knowledgeable managers there.
The next logical step after spending so much time there was to ask to use their bathroom. No, those are for the staff only, and they suggested we go down the street to the public library which we did. But, little did we know, within that public library is a used bookstore, another one of our favorite places to browse! Most books were a buck and in perfect condition! Had we known that first, we might have saved a lot of $$ so we loaded up there too, my finding a pristine hardcover copy of Joyce Carol Oats’ novel, Black Water as well as a hardcover book by Willie Nelson (more on that later).
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| Asheville al Fresco |
A word or two about Joyce Carol Oats, who, when I was younger, I would read, but as her fiction morphed into gothic, even horror, I rarely read her work anymore. Shame on me. She is such a fine writer and given the fact that she’s written more than 50 works, probably one of our best living novelists. Well, Black Water didn’t disappoint, including its white knuckle terror moments. Although she has denied it, it seems to be based on Ted Kennedy’s Chappaquiddick tragedy when he left a party on Martha's Vineyard late on a Friday night with a young woman, Mary Jo Kopechne to drive to a ferry landing and his car went off the road into a pond drowning the young woman.
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| Black Water by Joyce Carol Oats |
Oates renames these characters for her 1991 novel, set in a different decade and in Maine. It is the story of the main character’s death, Oats telling it over and over again from different perspectives and just when you think this is it, it is told yet again and with more retrospective narrative. The rhythm of the novel alone, and its expectant buildup of terror, makes it worth reading and in part of a day, sitting on the porch, overlooking the mountains, waiting for the appearance of our bear again, I read the entire book.
Getting back to the Willie Nelson story. Much earlier in this entry I mentioned that we had visited Troyer's Country Amish Blatz, and overheard the owners excitedly talking about taking the next day off to see their favorite singer, Willie Nelson. Our thought was to drop off the book we bought at the library on our way back (and pick up more of their delicious offerings). Serendipitous unexpected gifts are the best. When Ann gave them the book, you would think she was offering a gold bar, the gal who runs the store running around the counter to give her a big hug.
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| Visiting Smokey and the Pig |
Although we were strangers, all the local places treated us as old friends. That also included visits to the BBQ ‘Smokey and the Pig’ and ‘The Local Joint” which is a diner attached to a gas station.
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| The Local Joint |
Also, no trip in the area would be complete without a drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Little did we know, the day we choose was “Heritage Day” and the Arts and Crafts center which we have visited many times in previous years was celebrating with local artisans displaying (and naturally selling) their crafts and in a small tent adjacent to a grassy area a Western North Carolina group would perform the music of the area, mostly ballads handed down from one generation to the next and bluegrass originals. We enjoyed sitting in the little audience, being among the locals, and watching the families gather on the lawn, a little girl doing continuous cartwheels. It was like being part of Our Town.
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| Heritage Day Blue Ridge Parkway |
Alas, the time had come to leave our mountain retreat, pack and close up our Chalet putting it back together again the way we found it. But that was not the end of the journey as we had promised to visit friends, Kyle and Joe, in their new home in Big Canoe, GA. So down the mountain we went and on mostly local NC or GA highways we made our way to them, our GPS miraculously taking us to their door in the winding treacherous labyrinth which passes as a road to their home, deep within their mountain community.
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| Big Canoe Lake |
It can be challenging staying with another couple, living in their space, under their rules, but their commodious home and easygoing attitude made for a pleasurable two night stay. This community has it all, a pleasant clubhouse with good dining, golf (not for me), a health club, a lake with boats (very much for me), and that fine mountain air. Joe and Kyle have fixed up their home since they bought it a year ago, into a real escape from the flatness of FL. I loved being in the woods again, as we lived for 30 years in CT, and listening to the occasional song of cicadas.
We went out to dinner one night and once outside the community realized we were in MAGA country, someone actually paying to put up this billboard on a state road.
Leaving to go home finally was bittersweet, hating to leave on the one hand, but ready for our own bed. Ironically, even though their home is closer to ours in FL than from Asheville, it takes even longer as you have to go through Atlanta and then cut across FL.
So leaving their house early Saturday morning, I set our GPS on home. It got us to their front door and through their enormous community. It’s only logical it would get us out. Oops, not quite, much to our surprise!
Apparently, the GPS routes one to a gate exit which will not open for visitors and then keeps rerouting you to the top of a mountain. We were hopelessly lost and we had wanted to get an early start. We stopped several people for directions, and they were as vague as the GPS until FINALLY we found the main road out, but we can unequivocally say we saw more of Big Canoe, GA than most of its residents!
Finally underway, through Atlanta, most of the traffic consisting of those going to college football games, no real difficulties, and after Atlanta (unrecognizable, the place of Ann’s birth), as usual I set my speed control for 9 miles over the speed limit. I’ve been driving for 62 years and have never had a ticket for anything and having driven up and down the coast to CT for twenty years to our boat, was not about to forfeit my record.
About ten miles from the FL state line, my doing 79 miles an hour in the 70 zone, I noted that everyone was passing me as I was in the left lane, so I settled behind a GA driver in the middle lane who was going 80. Still traffic (all GA plates) was passing us in the left lane. Suddenly a sheriff’s car, lights flashing, came up behind me and pulled me over.
We were caught in a local GA speed trap. GA drivers were ok to go that speed or faster even, but the local police hand out these mementoes to anyone out of state (not really speeding tickets, but an income producing “breaking a local ordnance” scheme).
Sort of ruins a great trip. This officer was a good ole’boy if we ever saw one. Pleasant but would not want to be Cool Hand Luke under his tutelage.
Home safe and sound once again. At our age, we wonder how many such trips we might have left in us. Probably no more long distance drives. We put 1, 892 miles and 40 hours in the car those two plus weeks. That’s enough!
Troyer's Backyard
